April 27-28 still in Zaros

After breakfast, we decided to take a hike around a nearby lake, but it was farther than we wanted to hike, so decided to drive to lake & hike around the lake. We somehow ended up on a small road that went from asphalt, to gravel, to dirt. It might possibly have been the original Minoan trail to the lake! We finally made it to the lake, but since it had taken so long, we had no time to hike! So ,on to a real road & the Enthnology Museum in Vori-- a small, but comprehensive museum showing farm implements, cooking utensils, clothing & jewelry from the Minoan age (2000 BC) to the 1900's. Everything presented in a very basic & unpretentious manner. Then, we walked over to Alekos Taverna for a delightful Cretan lunch with Alekos & wife. We got back to out hotel just in time for a cooking class with the owner's mother. We now know how to make dolmas, stuffed vegetables & vegetable soup! Got back to our cottage & later took a short hike up to a monastery where a very old nun gave us homemade cookies. The next day we headed out to The Phaestos Palace ruins inhabited in 2000BC

Lunch at Taverna Alekos

Cooking class with Mama Cula

Agia Paulos, Old Roman shrine converted to a Christian church in 400AD

by the Minoans. It's located on a hill with a beautiful view of the valley & coast below. We have to admit that we kind of reached the tipping point on ruins--we forgot to take even one photo! But imagine a bunch of beautiful old rocks! We went on to nearby Agia Triada, also from the Minoan period, that is thought to be the villa of some very wealthy person. Again beautiful old rocks in a great location! Took a long drive, by Crete standards, through a beautiful valley & hills on back roads that led back to our hotel. Had a lively game of table tennis before dinner. Tomorrow we leave Zaros for the coast & will be on the beach. More to follow. . .

April 25-26 Zaros, Crete

We flew in to Crete at 5pm. It was very windy but, fortunately, no bumps during the 40 minute flight. We picked up our rental car & started our 1 hour drive to Zaros, a small village in the central part of Crete. First impression: Crete is not a sleepy little island! Heraklion, where the airport is located, is a major town with a major national road & very major traffic! Ana's illusions were shattered! After the Peloponese, this was little LA! Fortunately, as we got farther from Heraklion, we were driving through quiet little villages, olive trees & goats. Hurray--back to the Greece we love! We're staying at a wonderful small Eco-resort made up of small stone cottages overlooking a beautiful valley. There are hiking paths everywhere & lots of people from all over Europe, many with families. At first we were worried that we'd we in the middle of nowhere--but it's just perfect. Quiet, hiking, swimming pool, ping pong, archery & cooking classes--which we are taking tomorrow. The story behind
the hotel is interesting--2 brothers born & raised in Zaros, decided to start the hotel instead of leaving in search of a job. This is a big problem in Greece--as kids get more educated, there are no jobs to keep them in their villages--so they leave for Athens or Europe. So, Manolos & his brother have developed a whole industry & jobs. They've done a great job & they are so nice!

There are lots of short drives to archeological ruins & beautiful beaches--and lots of tiny tavernas with yummy food.  The food at our hotel is excellent & we've had not only raki, but also rakimelo (raki with honey & cinnamon). Yummy! I think we can do the same with mezcal! We plan to combine beach, ruins & walking and, of course,eating. We'll be here 4 days &, then, move to a more western part of the island near Hania, where we'll be on the beach.

We made it to the beach today on the southwest coast. Bill continued to work on his tan. He is now brown as a berry. Unfortunately, the variety is the albino berry. Greetings to all. More to follow. . .

 View from our cottage. The neat rows are olive trees.

View from Komos beach on the southern shore. Notice: there is still snow on the biggest mountains. BTW, the water in rivers is crystal clear. There are public fountains everywhere that you can drink from!

April 23-24 Nafplio

We left Monemvasia on the coast to cut thru the mountains to another coast further east. A meandering 3.5 hour drive stopping at beautiful lookouts, tiny churches & one monastery built into the rocky mountainside--where the lonely monk invited us to a cup of Greek coffee & lots of conversation.  We felt inspired to buy (more) soap made by the nuns & a bottle of white wine made by the monks. Reached Nafplio (which looked like any mid-size city on the way in) in the late afternoon & couldn't find our way to our motel--the old town is tricky & often without strret numbers. We finally called the hotel & Panos, one of 3 brothers, said Wait there & I'll come to show you the way on my motorcycle! The old city turned out to be

 Drive thru mountains

 Another beautiful little bay

Walkway to our hotel

Mycaenae doorway ( not the 120 ton lintel)

The Nafplio bay

wonderful.  Friday we visited Mycaenae, another ruin of a fortified city from 1400 BC. It's located strategically on a beautiful hill. One of the lintels weighs 120 tons-- 4 times the weight of one stone in the Egyptian pyramids! Nafplio is a much bigger town than we'd been in except for Athens. The old town area has lots of  very old Venetian & Turkish architecture & lots of twisty narrow streets. Saturday we cross the Isthmus of Corinth, drive to the Athens airport & fly to Crete. More to follow . . .

Monembasia, April 21-22

Tues, April 21 we finally & sadly left Kardamyli on our drive to Monemvasia. It was a beautiful drive over hills & through valleys covered with olive trees and, as we came down down the hills to valleys, orange trees for miles --all in bloom. The scent was wonderful. As we approached Monemvasia on the coast, it was the same stunning turquoise sea. The town is actually located on a huge rock that was a fort in the 1200's. It was Byzantine, then Ottoman, then Venetian until the early 1700's. A lot is still intact, as far as ruins go.  Some people still live on the Rock or The Castle, as the locals call it. Mostly it's a tiny village on twisty walkways filled with tourists, hotels, restaurants & shops. We stayed on the Rock which was fun & the views were wonderful. The little town across from Monemvasia is Gefyra & is built around the tiny bay. We had another fabulous meal at Scorpio's sitting on the waterfront gazing at The Rock and a beautiful schooner anchored in the bay for a few hours.

Wed, April 22 we drove an hour north to Mystras, the ruins of one of the best preserved Byzantine cities. The churches are amazing with incredible frescos. The Byzantine art style is mesmerizing.  It was a great day. We walked up & down about a million steps. Even the WCs required steps! Got back to Monemvasia for another late (and large) lunch - again at Scorpio's.  It's a good thing for all those steps! Tomorrow we leave for Nafplio, our last stop in the Pelopenese.  More to follow. . .
(Still having photo issues--last photo is view from our hotel terrace to the ruins below )

 Byzantine church at Mystras

 Lunch at Scorpio's--fried anchovies & grilled eggplant , tomatoes & feta

Sunday & Monday, April 19-20

Today was our lucky day! We started out sad to be leaving Kardamyli & our wonderful hotel. Then, when we went to check out, the owner said 'No, you don't leave until tomorrow!' And, she was right !  So we took a hike up to an old church in the hills & had a leisurely day just enjoying the town. Had another great lunch on the beach (see picture). Yesterday we drove around the lower half of the Mani Penisula & saw the Aegen Sea for the first time.This is a very unpopulated area & we stopped in a lot of tiny villages & inlets. The color of the water continues to amaze us! At the very tip of the Penisula is the spot the Greeks believed was the end of the Earth &, therefore, the gateway to Hades. (See Bill below) we entered several old churches--they're all tiny with amazing Byzantine icons. Many are locked & many just have a key in the lock, so anyone can enter. Tomorrow we leave (for real) further to the east along the Pelopenese & the Aegen Sea.  More to follow . . .

Sat, April 18 Kardamyli

Another beautiful day, perfect weather. Drove the twisty coastal road down the coast to a farmers market &, then, on to the Caves/Caverns of Pyrgos. You ride tiny boats into the cave  (fortunately wearing life vests) with a local who didn't speak English & apparently had no type of safety training. You see lots of stalactites/mites & ride  thru crystal clear water. Bill loved it --I almost did! We traveled back up the coast, stopping on a tiny beach at a fish taverna for grilled octopus & fried sardines. Not quite as good as yesterday, but the gorgeous bay made up for it! The views are exploding with wild flowers of every color, the ubiquitous olive trees & the incredible turquoise waters. They can live up to 1000 years!  Tomorrow we'll travel all the way around the Mani Penisula. This area is not on the main tourist track, so there's not a lot of traffic & no tour buses. More to follow . . .

at a fish taverna for grilled octopus & fried sardines. Not as good as yesterday, but the bay made up for it! The roadside is exploding with wild flowers of every color--contrasted with the bright turquoise waters-- it's just breathtaking. This area is off the main tourist track, so not a lot of traffic.  We're back on our balcony for the sunset. Tomorrow another drive all the  way down & around the Mani Penisula. We love this village. Our hotel is a dream & has a heavenly mattress & a comfy duvet. It's still cool at night--in the high 60's during the day.  More to follow. . .

Photos from April 17

 Lunch on the bay in Kalamata

 View from Hotel Bacchus outside of Olympia

 Our first glimpse of the Ionion Sea

A  simple map of our Trip